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Lost in train station, September 2006

Japan blog by Marcus Holden | Japan blog by Clare O'Meara

Marcus:

September 16th. Morning 10am
I am in training.... now that's a bad way to start a blog...with such a tired joke. I've been dropped off at Strathfield (Sydney) to catch the airport train for the flight north.
The airport line (for those of you who don't know) is an extension of an existing suburban line with a tunnel connecting it to central station. We all meet at the JAL counter and check in.
The counter attendant turns out to be a tango dancer and very interested by our music, especially when we mention Astor Piazolla. It's a great way to start the tour. Lachlyne (our bagpipe playing, travel agent mate) and Marilyn (John's partner) have coffee with us and we board the plane for our 10-hour flight to Japan. We are flying into Kansai (Central Japan) Airport, which we know well, having being our destination when we went to Expo last September, see Japan Blog "Herding Cats").
We are headed for Osaka, Japan's second biggest city. Just to give you an idea, the Kintesu Prefecture (Osaka's district if you like) has about 20 million people! Then there is Nagoya, Kobe etc. It has a different feel to Tokyo. The centre is not set out on so much of a grid. Last time I was there I was performing at the Hilton Hotel with Pat Drummond, in November, 1988.
The flight is a chance to chat about what to expect, and as there is no real time difference, we arrive in fairly good order. We touch down around 8pm, local time and head towards customs. Oh dear, we seem to have lost one bag and the mix up is at Sydney airport (surprise, surprise?). The baggage handlers at this airport have been a source of problems for us over many years.. I don't wish to say any more.
So it’s onto the airport bus into the centre of Osaka, a place full of very tall buildings.
The layout of the city centre is a bit like this. There are thee different rail networks with a separate central station for each within about a two kilometre radius and tall buildings everywhere! There are the Hanshin and Hankyu networks, both privately owned with their own department stores at each station and multiple lines on each (subway) network.
Then there is the JR (Japan Rail) network with local, rapid, night and bullet (Shinkansen) trains.
We are staying at Landmark Hotel, near the new Hankyu Hotel on the opposite side of JR station to Hilton Hotel. When I was last here, the building with a double tower and bridge across it was just about completed and the old metal stations were still all over the place. Now, there are sleek new connecting tunnels, platforms etc and the whole place is full of new skyscrapers.
After checking in at the Hotel, meeting up with Mark Oats, who has been traipsing around the continent since we went to Lorient. He's in fine form but a bit jetlagged having flown from Dublin, arriving about two hours before us.
We go out for some Udon noodles with George (Washingmachine) and Jim Pennell. I even recognize the streets by the rail lines from some 18 years before, which have gone from fairly drab thoroughfares to bustling strips of cafes and clubs. George has found a great restaurant and after a few ales and some fantastic Japanese food, we collapse in our rooms.

September 17th
I stagger out of bed at 9.50am to rush down stairs for breakfast, typically juice, toast and coffee. I bump into Nigel MacLean (fantastic fiddler from Melbourne) and the amazing Joe Chindamo, a pianist who's played with the likes of Billy Cobham. Today will be taken up with the rehearsal for the Fiddle Festival at Azalea Hall, Ikedo. It's a one-hour taxi ride from our hotel, everything is a one drive by car and a 40-minute ride by train, but we have too much gear, so cabs are the go. Before leaving for the rehearsal John (Coker) and wander around the city centre heading towards a suburb called Namba, where we are supposed to find all sorts of T-shirts etc. Not really finding anything like t-shirts we end up in a shopping area specializing in cookware, aprons, chefs uniforms, utensils such as Takoyaki makers (Octopus dumplings) etc, but we do end up eating the most delicious Sushi and very reasonable at about $10AUD! On the way back to the hotel, we sort of get lost. It's easy to do and we end up way over the other side of the train station right near the Hilton, with no visible landmark. After a bit of figuring out, I guess the general direction and finally arrive back at the hotel a bit rattled. We all jump in a taxi and head to the gig.
We meet up with lots of Japanese players, Takehiro Kunungi, Hidenori Omori and Ako, wonderful female percussionist, an amazing flute player from a band called the Butter Dogs and a crazy ukulele player/record producer called Hunehara Urankami, a sort of Japanese George (W).
The rehearsal is very long but it's a chance to jam with everyone. We are all a bit tired from the flight and there's a lot of running around sorting out power supplies (Japan is 110 volts), talking to the sound techs (who are great by the way) and getting our show together. By the end of the day, we sit down to another great meal of primarily noodles and head back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest.

September 18th
The concert starts at noon. Mark Oats is not so well, jetlag and late nights has turned him into a sleeping cocoon on the dressing room floor. He is serenaded by Jim on his semi-acoustic guitar and we will wake him in time for our part of the concert. First up Takehiro (who looks like a Japanese Mark Oats, see the Australian 25/9/06) and his mate fire-up playing some pretty impressive Irish tunes. Then the winner of the Japan Jazz violin competition plays.
Then the Butter Dogs play, then the Japan Fiddle Club and Hidenori. We jump up on stage with the group and after a piece together we launch into our set. Slowly but surely the audience gets into the vibe. We are lucky to be closing the first half of the performance and hightail it out to the foyer to do the Flogalot Jig, that is sell CDs!
During the break the Butter Dogs play up a storm with Mark Oats joining in, what a hoot. We are so different to the Japanese, totally irreverent and willing to make light of every situation. While the others perform, those of the entourage with the unfortunate habit of smoking hang round these strange looking air-suckers that extract the cigarette smoke from the vicinity.
The second half starts with George and Jim who have people dancing along to their groovy brand of Jazz. Then Joe, Chantele (vocals), Nigel and Martin (guitar) perform some absolutely beautiful jazz to finish. At the end, we all get up to play a version of C Jam blues, with Joe playing piano in one hand and Garry's accordion in the other, quite a feat. The concert finishes around 4pm and after signing more CDs there is a get together in the restaurant to meet the other musicians. I give Aki (she works in Kyoto) a CD and she presents me with percussion instrument (can't remember the name) which is a series of wooden blocks held together with leather and I quiz her about what Kyoto is like as we are headed there tomorrow.
A few Shojus later, (Japanese style Gin) we pile into cabs and head back to the hotel to collapse.
Well, not quite, Jim is on the hunt for a new guitar and we head out to a nearly music store. The exchange rate makes Japanese goods a lot cheaper than even last year, so we are checking out everything. There are cases, racks, instruments, strings, in fact everything! I am kind of interested in a new satellite navigation service you can get on Japanese phones. Well actually, I've got a new handset from Telstra that works in Japan (it works everywhere) and I am wondering if I can use Nav-Sat on it? I am sure I'll find out!

September 19th
With forward planning, Keisuke has given us a day off to explore the wonders of Kyoto, the old Capital of Japan and Rie, a friend of ours from our first visit in 2001, is our guide. It s a city of 1.3 million people and only a 40 minute train ride by JR from Osaka. Getting from the Hotel to the JR station takes as long as it does to get by train to Kyoto. George, John, Mark, Clare, Jim and Garry are also in the party.
On our arrival at Kyoto station we hear this crazy sound... wondering what on earth it is we ascend three sets of escalators to be met by a school brass band (very much like the one Aki writes for) warming up. The cacophony is incredible and I get some footage of it for sampling later! We ride right to the roof of the Kyoto rail station, a huge glass dome, and stand in the garden looking out over the city. The brass band finally start playing the standard John Phillip Sousa repertoire (very well) and we return to ground level to commence our tour. We are hoping to see lots of temples but it takes a long time to get around in a bus. After a 40-minute bus ride we get to the Kinkakuji, the Golden Temple. It is one of the most amazing places on the planet, covered in gold leaf and centuries old, home to countless Buddhist Monks and full of some of the most calming atmosphere you could ever imagine. Wandering around the immaculate gardens full of bonsai firs and Japanese Maples etc, you can sense the monks meditating in the shrine and tea houses over the millennia, so unlike Australia!
We're starting to get hungry so Rie directs us to a wonderful traditional restaurant in the old part of Kyoto. It's like Teppinyaki but an egg based sort of thing. We pass by a very old Kabuki theatre and the river in the centre of town.
From the bus, we see a very odd sight. It's a small block of land with a shack, with chicken wire around it. It has unmown grass, heaps of papers and litter on it and car tyres, much like you'd see in rural Oz, sticking out of the soil. It's so uncanny, just like back home, except the tyres would be carved into swans. To see any litter at all is very strange! There are people employed on the streets to pick up rubbish (not that much gets dropped). The busy intersections are manned by uniformed men (that's an oxymoron) with flags and whistles controlling the flow of traffic. Everyone has a job to do and is proud to do it. It's just the Japanese way!
When I was here last time with Pat, we went to the Red Shinto Shrine and Mr Drummond made the mistake of trying to photograph a ceremony. The attendant was very angry. I have heard that the relics of ancestors are stored in these shrines (bones and stuff) and they perform rituals with these. It's a bit of an odd religion! Anyway, this time we trudge up the hill to an ancient pagoda and along the "Path of Enlightenment" to the Red Shinto Shrine, which is as always spectacular! By now, it's cuppa tea-time and after wander through the markets in the cobbled streets we stop at a tea house for coffee? The conversation wanders from music to what everyone has been up for the past couple of years (haven't seen Jim Pennell for a long while) and we wind through the street towards the centre of town, passing tourists hiring rickshaws and a trio of girls in traditional costume. We get back to the station and board the rapid JR train saying goodbye to Rie, who is catching the bullet back to Tokyo. Its a good time to point out that even though the water goes down the plug hole the other way, we are all coping with Japan very well.
By the time we get back, we are all very tired and after wandering around the streets, we finally find our way back to the Landmark Hotel. We're off to Tokyo tomorrow!

September 20th
We leave the hotel at 10am. Keisuke Sasaki is with us and we arrive at ShinOsaka to board the bullet train (Shinkansen). Shin, by the way means new. We will be staying in Shinjuku (new quarters), in Tokyo. Last time we stayed in Ueno (Open Field) on the other side of the city near the zoo. The Japanese language is amazing, not that I can master it. I studied French and Latin at school but forget it. There are a couple of simple things to remember about getting around Japan. Firstly, it's very safe, clean and the people are delightful. Secondly, all the signs are in Japanese script (there are two) and Romanji (Roman alphabet). It's phonetic. So Kinkakuji is pronounced the same way it is spelled. Each Japanese symbol is a pictogram, a drawing each stroke being executed in a special order. Some things are easy Fuji + Yama is Fujiyama or Mount Fuji, which is visible from the Sinkansen. Okay, so I should say firstly, the train is going 300kpm! Garry and I are intrigued. It's the fastest train in the world, definitely faster than the TGV (Trans Grande Vitesse) in France and well, we can't figure the power supply..is it diesel, there's only one overhead wire and one connector but no smoke and tell tale noise on acceleration! Every time another passes the train lurches gently! To one side...600kpm! The Shinkansen stops at Kyoto, Nagoya and I've forgotten wherever else. It's 2.5 hours to Tokyo. The sun is shining. We might see Fujiyama!!!!!
We do see Fujiyama... just! It rises above the cloud line but we are going very fast! It's not snow covered like the postcards but impressive nonetheless. Next stop Tokyo. By the way, the train is electric. How do they do that?
We get off at Shin-something-or-other (new?). We catch taxis to the hotel and the weather is very warm!
Last time we were in Tokyo we stayed near the zoo at Ueno north west of the CBD... wait a second. It's all CBD (central business district)! The Kadoya Hotel is right near the Shinkuju station, two stops from Shibuya and lots of shopping, food places. I almost know where I am going this time! Because we were in Kyoto yesterday, and we caught a train to Tokyo this morning we have not much time to get changed etc and go to our gig at O'Carolan's in Jiyugoaka. Arriving downstairs again to wait for our transport, I am met by Jai (John's) son. He and his mate, Richard, study karate and teach English in Tokyo. Blimey, big lads. Pretty cool characters.
Keisuke picks us up in a moon-rover (people mover) and we spend the next hour in traffic going to the gig. We've played O'Carolan's before and we meet Mr. H-something who is still the boss. The stage is small, the P.A. is smaller, but we have a great time. I think I have some photos of us in pyjamas doing the gig in 2001! We rush off to the station to get some food. Jai and Richard have caught the train and we chat over dinner about what it's like to live here etc…all amazing things go on!
Back to the gig and there is a group of music students from the local uni playing flute, violin and cittern. Pretty good players! We all get up and jam towards the end having a great time, sell some CDs and generally faff about. Mrs Sasaki (Chie) is also there. I met her when we went to Expo last year. She and Keisuke are expecting their first child and you can see the air of excitement they have for this upcoming event. Chie spent a year living in Melbourne and they both love Australia. I guess our lifestyle is so different to theirs. Her command of the English language and Aussie customs is amazing! After a long day, we all get back in the bus and head home to the hotel........

September 21st
Another day off... I am off to Ochanomizu to look at Music shops. Garry is tagging along with me. He's more interested in the general view of the place rather than anything specific. I am hunting violins etc. We get to Shinjuku station. It's huge. there are so many entrances and it goes for about two city blocks in every direction. It's very confusing, sort of. I am getting the hang of the ticket machine. The Romanji script is very easily understood and many people speak good English. we are lucky. So we walk in one entrance and head for the JR line. So, off we go on the Chuo line, rapid section and end up at ShinOchanomizu, despite everything I do. On the way, we pass a river with people fishing from tanks... very odd!!! We walk round the corner to a street full of music stores. It's quite a sight. Specialist guitar, keyboards, brass, strings, sheet music shops are everywhere.
I am particularly interested in Shimokura's violin shop as that is where I have done business before and I have a friend's violin bow to show the dealers to see whether they may be interested in stocking them. I also go into Kurakawa's shop... Only one problem... no violin or bow Doh!
Garry has a hankering for Sushi and we find a great Sushi restaurant right near the train station. Beautiful! Lunch-time and about $10 for enough to stuff a horse.
Back to the hotel! I am determined to show my violin bow to some of the violin shops, so I pick my violin up and get on the train, this time I am sure I'll get of at Ochanomizu... Not again... Oh I see. Okay. The rapid train going east on the Chuo line stops at ShinOchanomizu and picks up you going well as Ochanomizu! So there....solved it!
The two shops I take the bow to are very interested and I exchange cards etc. The European repairer in Kurosawa's suggests I go to Shibuya to their major store (they have six in Tokyo). That'll be an excursion for tomorrow. I text Mark (Oats) as I get to Shinjuku, to see what the others are up to. They are off to Asakusa past Ueno to some shopping comples. It's very near the river and the old port. I have to go to the Ginza then change trains. I start on the Maronouchi line then change to the Ginza line... By this time my left calf has decided to pack it in and I'm starting to imp. It's okay... I'm tough...boo hoo. So, at Asakusa, there is a whole acre of shops and stalls. Toy stores, clothing stores, nick-knacks, the lot. Enough, enough! I'm shopped out! There is a beautiful temple at the end of the row of stalls. It’s a beautiful place to say prayers (Buddhist) and contemplate. It's a very old temple and part of the old river port.
We deicide to have a quiet ale before heading back to the hotel. Keisuke and Chie are lovely company and we chat about the future for all of us.... Home to bed, hopefully!!!!
I get back to the hotel to my computer... my old, special friend??? I think better get home! There's this site called You Tube. It's a video site where you can see music clip etc. It's mostly Lo-Fi but there is some terrific old footage of stuff my favourite for the moment Jean-Luc Ponty and there are even some local fiddlers I know. It's a great site and worth a look! Most hotels in Japan give you the Internet for free and broadband is fast! With a Suntory beer in one hand, I slowly sink the tinnie then sink into sleep!

September 22nd
Ladies and gentlemen! Today's performance of Fiddlers Feast (or Fiddlers Festival) will be at the JT Hall, about half an hour from Shinjuku by car! I am going to the headquarters of Kurosawa violins in Shibuya via Harajuku, which is the station before. There are rows of stores selling punk gear, t-shirts, trinkets etc. I buy a Japlish shirt that is meaningless drivel and wander down the end of the street to Meiji Dori, a huge avenue with clothes, jewellery you name it. I recognize the landscape from our first trip to Toko and walk past the Crocodile Club, where we played when we first visited Tokyo in 2001. On I walk, till finally I come to Kurosawa's shop and after a short chat, I sit down with the manager and an interpreter to talk about violin bows. With business concluded, I walk back up towards the train station, meet the others and get on the Yamanote train and head back to the hotel for a 3pm pickup.
Now this is incredible... It's the Japan Tobacco Hall! I should be full of guilt and angst. Cigarettes and I... well a couple of St. Pat's Day's ago, was the official spokesman of world non-smoking day. It got a lot of publicity for what I consider is a horrible addiction! Now, I'm playing in this absolutely fantastic gig, a hall run by a tobacco company. I just want to say it is the best performance space I have ever palyed in. I could get really boring and give you the specifics of the acoustics, let alone rave about the sound technicians, the Steinway series D concert Grand Piano.. I am just blown out. A bunch of looney fiddlers from Sydney playing in such an indescribable venue......... So, we play to the very quiet and attentive audience, not quite knowing how to behave. At intermission, Keisuke actually comes up to me and says... "Can you behave a bit worse!!!!" I just don't believe it. Of well, wonders will never cease! The rest of the gig goes fantastically and we all gather out the back of the auditorium after the flogalot gig and make speeches. The head of the Tokyo Japan Tobacco Company loves us, gives us all a carton of cigarettes and we all have a glass or two of saki or something and head back to the hotel the bus!!!

September 23rd
Last day, boo hoo!!! We're leaving at 2.30pm to go to the airport. But before that, it's off to Harajuku again to find the 100yen shop... which is right near the station in Takashita Dori... That is the correct spelling indeed.... try and pronounce that! I find the shop and buy about 3400Y worth of stuff. Lots of interesting things like garden trowels, aprons, Stainless steel measuring cups, CDs. I now have a huge bag! OOOPs! I rush back to the hotel and we all meet in the restaurant for lunch. We've all bought presents. It’s the Japanese way! Keisuke swaps my National Junk Band T-shirt for a Japan Fiddle Festival one. Mark buys a plastic reindeer he calls Rodney. Subtle hint, I think? Clare gives Rie a very nice green top. I repack. We all drag our cases to the bus stop at Shinjuku and farewell Jai who has been called in to work. Keisuke, Chie and Rie accompany us to the airport and after a bit of running around we check in. We all board the plane back to Kansai international airport and once we have collected Mark's bag, head into the main part of this man-made island. Quite an amazing structure and I don't get it? Apparently, they need to keep adding to it as it sinks?
Mark is going back to Ireland and will have jetlag (again). He also has a very long flight! Our last meal is Chinese? And after coffees etc, we bid farewell to the curly-headed fiddler. He has a bit of a wait before he gets on his plane to London via Dubai? By the way, he didn't have a very good flight back, which makes his contribution all the more appreciated (hope he's reading this!). On the plane, we get seats on the upper desk of the 747-200 and relax back into the half-asleep/awake reality that is plane travel! Good night!


A blog.....Clare O'Meara | Marcus Holden's blog

So, if I pick it up from the bullet train...
Exciting prospect for all of us, the world famous bullet train, that one we've heard about for years, and here we are finally about to embark on our trip to Tokyo from Osaka, via the bullet train. First of all, we must check out of the hotel, enjoy the sumptuous pickings of noodles, lettuce and something which looks like its meant to be eggs for breakfast, then try and figure out the dimensions of loading all of our suitcases, accordions, guitars, fiddles and ourselves into two taxis. Garry is usually the 'Chief Packer', a title in which he is unsurpassed. Keisuke, our fearless leader, informs us we have some time to shop at the train station - an exciting prospect for me with my yen packed wallet. I am able to find some of those gorgeous japanese paper products, beautifully decorated and painted with such attention to detail and colour, and cheap. We board the train, and are off shortly after. Not sure when this train reaches 300km/ph, but it was certainly flying along at an ear popping pace. All the staff, and passengers are immaculate and reserved, in contrast we are chatty and a bit raucous (pick the Aussie), and someone's mobile keeps alerting for messages at a loud volume - not mentioning any names but his initials start with Marcus Holden.
The hostess informs us we will be sighting Mt Fuji at approx. 12:30pm. I fall asleep, then am woken by Keisuke excitedly informing me that we will be seeing Mt Fuji any minute now. We all rush up the aisle, falling over one another, as we must get to a window that is in between carriages to view (as we don't have seats on the Mt Fuji side of train). And then, there it is, and it is in full view. Keisuke tells me, we are very lucky to be able to see it, as most of the time, it is covered in cloud. In fact, considering it was our first trip on this train, and being able to see it, made us even luckier, and he expressed his happiness for us all. And even more surprising, I'm able to secure a picture on my trusty phone, a feat I wouldn't have believed possible, at the speed we were going.
Before we know it, we are in Tokyo, clutching at tickets, passports, bottles of green tea and violins of course. Again we pile into taxis, and head to our hotel. It took about an hour, everywhere in Tokyo is an hour or two away by taxi. We are playing in an Irish bar called O'Carolans, and even though we don't start till 8pm, we need to leave the hotel at 3pm, just to not get stuck in peak hour traffic - it's actually worse than Sydney. Keisuke delivers us to the gig, then we sort out an approach method to the PA, another job best delegated to Garry, his Forte (excuse the pun). I brave a coffee, haven't found a decent one yet, and once again am not disappointed. The green tea is always the best option in Japan, don't be fooled by Star-bucks either. After getting what we think will be an acceptable sound for the evening, with the help of 'Junior', the Jamaican sound guy, we venture out for dinner for........more noodles. I try the cold buckwheat soba noodles, doused in Wabash and shoyu - stunning. This restaurant caters for all international palates, as I notice a few plates of steak and chips.
Back to the gig, and the support act is on, a trio of young Japanese celtic players - traditional, playing into the mics, producing a nicely digestible sound. Our first set went all right, considering the absence of drums, and I guess the audience tolerated us tolerating the lack of drums, there was no shortage of spirit however. The next set was carried out with the usual frivolity and near precise execution. Afterwards, we were keen to carry on. Keisuke delivered us back to the hotel, and Rie promptly led us in tow to a local bar for a few nudges. This is where I discovered 'Edamame'. They are boiled green Soya beans, served with a sprinkle of salt, which you peel the skin and then eat the enclosed beans - Devine. Rie informs me, these are often served in bars, as the Yin Yang Macrobiotic effect, neutralizes the alcohol - sounds good in theory, and also tasty. Since being home, I have sourced these morsels out at Tokyo Mart, my new favourite supermarket.
Next day - we have off, and traipse around the streets looking for souvenirs, Edamame etc. Keisuke and Chie take us to a market, selling all the typical Japanese silk, paper products, fans, purses, scarves, jars, Mickey Mouse etc. Plus, we go to a sushi train, which is considerably better than any version of Sushi train have experienced outside of Japan. Then we see a nice temple, stunningly lit up, breath some incense for intelligence, throw a few yen in and pray. Back to the hotel for some more beer, then another scrumptious meal of... noodles and mushrooms.
More shopping the next day, funky fashions, socks for days, themed T- shirts, and some interesting Japanese Op shops. Cowboy boots are big right now, as are the long sox worn with short shorts and stilettos, not sure how that look would translate in Chatswood.
Our final gig is on, at the Tokyo Tobacco Jazz Club. Finally we have a nice sound, delivered by diligent agreeable sound people, and all the hot towels, green teas, canned coffees we can handle. We are finally at the most ease sans drums, a fact helped by the nice monitoring. A very nice Steinway, Garry was in his element. Our souls were rejuvenated. Afterwards, there was a little presentation back stage, to which we were invited, by the Jazz club. It was all very touching.
Now we are a bit tired, and have to get back to the hotel to pack up. The last day, Lucia takes us to a flea market, lots of car boots with lots of T-shirts, more cowboy boots and converse sneakers. Mark picks up some vintage stuffed kangaroos and koalas, also a new mascot - a blow up pink reindeer with black wings, on wheels which he aptly named 'Rodney'. Rie and Chie love the animals, and we then head to the airport for the drill.
I'm keen for a final scrumptious Japanese meal before departing, however am outnumbered choice wise, by a Chinese meal instead - it's acceptable, but hasn't filled me with the joy experienced with previous gastronomic outings of the week. And, disappointedly noticed a Japanese Macrobiotic restaurant directly opposite, upon leaving the Chinese.
One more Green tea, and one more last ditch effort from Marcus, to try and upgrade to business class - it didn't work - then we were off. I look forward to returning, and immersing myself in this culture, particularly from a food angle.